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About Karl Egloff

Karl Egloff lives in Switzerland, was born in Quito to a Swiss father and an Ecuadorian mother. Since an early age his father Charly, a renowned Swiss mountaineer in Ecuador, took him along on his expeditions where Karl at an early age, found his passion for the mountain.

At age 15 he had already ascended mountains more than 5,000 meters high over 250 times and had surpassed the barrier of 6,000 meters above sea level 30 times. Now he is a tour leader and owner of his own mountaineering agency Cumbre Tours since 2013.

Karl is known for more than his mountaineering prowess. He started mountain bike racing in 2008 and since Karl has won 70 gold medals in national races and has represented Ecuador in over 6 international cycling events, including 2 international participations in the highest category.

While guiding his Swiss international trekking groups he kept his fitness by running in altitude while everyone rested. Karl learned he had a gift for endurance in altitude and started his prowess in sky running. In August 2014, Karl gained international notoriety by breaking the world record for speed climbing up Mount Kilimanjaro and then by crushing the World record to the top and back of Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Americas in February 2015 and now owns the record for Mount Elbrus attained in 2017. Recently this year, he broke Denali’s speed record setting it in 11h44min overall running to the top of the mountain in 7h40min and getting back to base camp in 4h04min.

 

His project is to do each of the hight mountains on each continent, known as the 7 Summits for fastest known times in speed climbing and doing the FKT for the tallest peaks of each Andean country. He now is one of the most respected mountain athletes in Ecuador and the world.

Karl Egloff – extreme mountaineer and speed climber

Personal data

 

  • Name: Karl Egloff
  • Birthday: March 16, 1981
  • Place of birth: Quito, Ecuador
  • Place of residence: Since July 2024 in Höri ZH, Switzerland (previously in Quito, Ecuador)
  • Nationality: Ecuadorian-Swiss (dual citizen)
  • Profession: Extreme mountaineer, UIAGM mountain guide, operator of an expedition agency and keynote speaker
  • Family: Married, two children (8 and 3 years old)
  • Languages: Spanish, German, English, French

Professional background

 

  • Mountain guide in Ecuador since the age of 15
  • Commercial apprenticeship
  • Football player, trial training with FC Zurich and Grasshoppers Club Zurich, 8 years with FC ZH Affoltern
  • Professional mountain biker (2008 – 2014), participated in two world championships, 150 gold medals
  • Trained UIAGM mountain guide since 2016
  • Extreme mountaineer with numerous records, 4 summits + 8 more
  • Operator of the expedition agency www.cumbretours.com

Mountaineering records

Seven Summits records

 

Counted as follows: Park entrance-base camp-summit and back to park entrance, all on foot without skis. Each ascent with park ranger officialization and certificate.

DateMountainContinentHeightTimeDistance and elevation gain
August 13, 2014KilimanjaroAfrica5’895 m6:42 hours42, 4300
1st record: 19 February 2015AconcaguaArgentina (South America)6’962 m11:52 hours65, 4'400
2nd record: 8 February 20257:57 hours
May 7, 2017ElbrusRussia (Europe)5'642 m4:20 hours24, 3'300
June 20, 2019DenaliAlaska (North America)6'190 m11:44 hours60, 4'700

Please note: The time includes ascent and descent

Other significant records, included ascent and descent

MountainContinent/CountryHeightTimeClimbing partnerNotes
MakaluAsia8'485 m25:48 hoursNicolas MirandaMay 8, 2022, Advanced Base Camp - Summit - Advanced Base Camp
Aconcagua North & SouthSouth America6'962 m North,7:56 hoursSoloBase camp - summit South - North - Base camp
6'904m South
CotopaxiEcuador5'897 m1:37 hoursSoloYear 2012, hut - summit - hut
ChimborazoEcuador6'267 m3:39 hoursSoloYear 2018, park entrance - summit - park entrance
KilimanjaroAfrica5'895 m6:42 hoursSoloYear 2014
CayambeEcuador5'790 m2:05 hoursSoloYear 2021, hut – summit - hut
Ilinizas South & NorthEcuador5'263 m South, 2:57 hoursSoloYear 2021: parking lot - summit south - north - parking lot
5'116 m North
Cerro El PlomoChile5'424 m5:55 hoursSoloYear 2016, hut - summit - hut
Huascarán NordPeru6'655 m11 hoursNicolas MirandaYear 2016, reeway – summit - freeway
Aconcagua south faceSouth America6'904 m25 hoursNicolas MirandaYear 2020, Ecuador variant

Please note: The time includes ascent and descent

Training program

Training volume

 

  • 7 training sessions per week
  • About 20 hours of training weekly
  • 5’000-7’000 meters of elevation gain per week

 

Training content

 

  • Weekly climbs or simulations of 5’000 – 7’000 meters, depending on schedule
  • 7-15 hours per week of altitude simulation with an ergometer
  • 2-3 steep training sessions per week with 2’000 – 3’000 meters of elevation gain, including rhythm changes
  • Weekly training in mountainous terrain
  • Flat recovery training on the bike or long jogging sessions

 

Special preparations

 

  • Altitude tolerance and altitude training
  • Training without fluid intake
  • Increased water consumption before record attempts
  • Adaptation to extreme temperatures and altitudes

 

Additional aspects

 

  • Balanced nutrition
  • 5 hours of sleep per night
  • Mental preparation and risk analysis

Project Mount Everest

  • Planned for Spring 2025 (April and May for preparation and acclimatization, late May for Mount Everest record attempt)
  • Goal: Ascent and descent on the same day in less than 24 hours without bottled oxygen
  • Accompanied by climbing partner Nicolas Miranda
  • Intensive altitude training in Argentina
  • Simulation of mountain conditions in Höri
  • Olympic Training Center Kerenzerberg: Simulation of incline and rhythm

 

Karl Egloff has climbed almost all of the Seven Summits in record time. He only has the peaks in Antarctica (Mount Vinson) and Australia/Oceania (Carstensz Pyramid) left to complete.

 

He is known for his extraordinary achievements in speed climbing and has repeatedly surpassed records set by the exceptional talent Kilian Jornet.

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